Thursday, December 5, 2024

Coffee chronicles: A sip through time

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Wake-Up Juice, Java, Liquid Energy, Rocket Fuel, or Morning Jolt are just a few of the endearing nicknames coffee has acquired over the years, but where did this beguiling, bold brew begin?

Coffee comes from the highlands of Ethiopia and Yemen, countries at the southern end of the Red Sea.

According to Mark Pendergrast in “Uncommon Grounds: The History of Coffee and How It Transformed Our World,” coffee’s origins are shrouded in mystery. One popular Ethiopian legend, which originates around 850 AD, features a goatherder named Kaldi.

He discovered coffee when he noticed his goats behaving wildly after eating the leaves and berries of an unfamiliar tree. Intrigued, Kaldi tried the berries and experienced a burst of energy and joy.

Kaldi’s newfound excitement led him to share this discovery through poetry and song, embedding coffee into Ethiopian culture.

APPEARANCE

The coffee plant, mainly Coffea arabica and Coffea canephora (robusta), usually grows between 3 and 10 feet tall but can reach up to 15 feet. Its shiny, dark green leaves are oval-shaped and grow in pairs.

The plant produces small, fragrant white flowers in clusters, which turn into bright red or yellow cherries containing coffee beans. While the coffee plant’s appearance may change slightly depending on where it grows, its basic features remain the same.

HOW IT WAS CONSUMED

Pendergrast explains that early Ethiopians initially chewed coffee beans and leaves, known as “Bunn,” but soon developed tastier methods of consuming caffeine.

Ethiopians then brewed the leaves and berries into a weak tea, mixed ground beans with animal fat for energy, and fermented the pulp into wine. They also created a sweet drink called “qishr” from roasted coffee husks.

FROM ETHIOPIA TO ARABIA

Yemen is historically recognized as Arabia’s main coffee-exporting center. The name “coffee” derives from the Arabic term “qahwa.”

From Ethiopia, coffee spread to Yemen, where it became a significant part of local culture and trade. Dubbed the “Wine of Arabia,” monks in Yemen Sufi monasteries in the 15th century used coffee as an aid to concentration and even spiritual intoxication when they chanted the name of God, notes John McHugo for BBC.com.

According to Pendergrast, it quickly became a daily staple and a valuable trade commodity. It was expensive and associated with elite social circles throughout the Islamic world. This popularity gave rise to kaveh kanes, or coffeehouses — also referred to as “Schools of the Wise” — across Persia, Egypt, Turkey, Syria and North Africa, which became lively social hubs.

By the tenth century, coffee was likely already cultivated when Arabian physician Rhazes mentioned coffee in print.

ON TO EUROPE

Coffee traveled to Europe through two main routes. First, it traveled overland from the Ottoman Empire, which had embraced the drink and set up coffeehouses. Second, coffee was shipped by sea from the port of Mocha in Yemen, a key trading center for the beverage.

The National Coffee Association USA details that European travelers introduced coffee to the continent in the 17th century, where it quickly gained popularity despite some initial suspicion.

Coffeehouses emerged as social hubs across major European cities, with London’s establishments dubbed “penny universities” for their low-cost coffee and stimulating conversation.

By the mid-17th century, more than 300 coffeehouses existed in London, leading to the rise of businesses like Lloyd’s of London, founded at Edward Lloyd’s Coffee House.

THE WORLD’S MOST EXPENSIVE COFFEE

No discussion of coffee's history is complete without mentioning Kopi Luwak, the world's most expensive coffee at around $100 per cup.

Britannica.com details the coffee as originating from the Indonesian islands of Java and Sumatra. This unique coffee involves a small civet cat — resembling a raccoon — locally known as Luwak, which feeds on ripe coffee cherries.

The process began in the early 18th century during Dutch colonial rule when farmers realized the beans passed through the civet's digestive system and created a distinct flavor.

Initially a way to use the beans left behind, this method evolved into a highly desired coffee variety. KopiLuwak.com explains that due to its unusual production process, Kopi Luwak remains rare. It boasts a rich, syrupy flavor with notes of caramel and chocolate, described as earthy, musty and exotic.

COFFEE CRITICS

In an article for the Smithsonian, Kat Eschner chronicles the rise of coffeehouses in central London, which reached 82 by 1663, mainly due to their novelty, as noted by Matthew Green in The Telegraph.

However, this popularity sparked backlash, exemplified by a humorous pamphlet that circulated in 1674, in which women protested against what they called the “newfangled, abominable, heathenish liquor called coffee.”

The Women’s Petition claimed that coffee drinking had rendered their husbands impotent and “as unfruitful as those deserts whence that unhappy berry is said to be brought.” They lamented, “For can any woman of sense or spirit endure ... that when she approaches the nuptial bed, she should only meet a bedful of bones?”

Additionally, the petition criticized coffee for making men overly talkative, stating that they would “sup muddy water” and “murmur insignificant notes” until they out-talked the women.

NCA cites that coffee critics also included clergy in Venice who labeled it the “bitter invention of Satan,” prompting Pope Clement VIII to taste it himself and ultimately granting it papal approval.

GROWTH OF THE COFFEE-MAKER

Though many variations of boiling pots, percolators, pressers, drip, and pressure coffee makers were invented and used in many different countries, the following is a brief overview of coffee brewing through the years.

The coffee maker incurred many stylistic brewing methods on its way to America. Coffee.org reveals that the Turkish press was popular in 1640, followed by Germany’s introduction of the siphon in 1884. Italy introduced its espresso machine in 1884

Although its origins are disputed, notes HistoryCooperative.org, the early 19th-century prototype of the coffee percolator is credited to the American-British physicist Sir Benjamin Thompson.

Cowboys in the American West deeply appreciated strong coffee, explains Anne Cooper Funderburg In her article on TrueWestMagazine.com. “Cowboys were undoubtedly the most devoted group of coffee drinkers.”

Cowboy coffee is a simple method of brewing coffee. It is traditionally made by boiling coarse coffee grounds in water over an open fire, typically in a pot or a kettle. After boiling, the coffee is allowed to settle, and it can be poured directly into a cup, often without any filtering.

According to Coffee.org, Germany invented the first drip coffee maker in 1908. Italy’s French press followed in 1929, and the Moka Pot followed in 1933. Germany presented its Chemex in 1941.

COFFEE ARRIVES IN NORTH AMERICA

In the mid-1600s, coffee was introduced to New Amsterdam, now New York. Although coffeehouses quickly emerged, tea remained the preferred beverage until 1773, when colonists protested a heavy tax on tea imposed by King George III.

The NCA also reports that the protest, known as the Boston Tea Party, significantly shifted American preferences toward coffee. Thomas Jefferson famously called coffee “the favorite drink of the civilized world.”

THE BUNN FAMILY

According to historical information on Bunn.com, more than 170 years ago, Jacob Bunn started a grocery store in Springfield, Illinois, where a young Abe Lincoln was among the first customers.

This business grew into Bunn Capitol Wholesale Grocery Company, later managed by George R. Bunn, who created a beverage equipment division in the late 1950s.

In 1963, George R. Bunn established the Bunn-O-Matic Corporation as a separate company. He designed his own versions of paper coffee filters with a flat bottom and fluted sides and pour-and-drip coffee brewers.

About that time, Mr. Coffee appeared on the scene along with Sunbeam coffee makers.

COFFEE GROWERS AND STATISTICS

IBISWorld cites the United States as the world’s biggest importer of coffee. Although Americans don’t drink as much coffee per person as many Europeans, the large population and limited coffee-growing regions — only Hawaii and California — make the U.S. the top importer.

Arabica and Robusta beans account for 99% of all coffee consumed globally, according to Intracen.org.

There are four main types of coffee beans: Arabica, Robusta, Liberica, and Excelsa. Arabica beans make up about 60% of total consumption and are known for their smooth, complex flavors. However, they are challenging to grow and are primarily cultivated in Brazil, Colombia and Ethiopia.

Robusta beans, which are easier and cheaper to produce, can taste more bitter. They are mainly grown in Vietnam and Brazil.

Liberica beans, known for their floral to woody flavor, come from Liberia and are less common. They are primarily found in Southeast Asia, West Africa and the Philippines. Excelsa beans are fruity and tart, with a lower caffeine content.

According to M. Shahbandeh’s report published Nov. 23, 2023, for Statista, coffee consumption in the U.S. amounts to over 26.3 million 60-kilogram bags — or about 132.28 pounds per bag — in the 2022-2023 fiscal year.

This is a slight decrease from the total U.S. coffee consumption in the previous fiscal year. The decline in coffee consumption can be linked to economic factors.

Rising costs of living and inflation may lead consumers to cut back on nonessential items, including specialty coffee drinks. Additionally, some consumers may prioritize budget-friendly alternatives. Shahbandeh notes these economic pressures have contributed to the overall decrease in coffee consumption in the U.S.

In the U.S., the love for coffee spans age groups, with 37% of 13-18-year-olds enjoying it, rising to 47% among 18-24-year-olds, 63% for those aged 25 to 39, 64% for 40-59-year-olds, and a notable 72% among those 60 and older, states Coffeenatics.com.

Today, as you savor your cup of joe, reflect on the centuries of tradition and innovation that have shaped your experience.

Each sip delivers a burst of flavor and connects you to a vibrant history that spans continents and cultures, inviting you to contemplate the stories brewed into every cup.